The process of choosing, wearing, and caring for a suit is often fraught with tough decisions, confusing jargon, and conflicting opinions. That’s why we’ve assembled an all-star roster of menswear experts to definitively answer all your sartorial queries. Welcome to GQ’s Ask a Tailor.
Conventional wisdom advises dressing for the job you want, but does that still apply when the job you want is president of the United States? Among the many other ways in which the 2024 presidential race is unlike any other before it, both sides of the presidential ticket are answering this question in notably different ways—with Chloé suits and camo hats on one side, and a galleon’s worth of billowing navy worsted wool on the other. We reached out to our ever-growing roster of menswear experts for insights into how the candidates are using style to vie for the highest office in the land.
Kamala Harris
A selection of bespoke Chloé pantsuits in muted colors accessorized with a pearl necklace (a subtle nod to her historically Black sorority) and occasionally a pair of black-and-white Converse All-Stars has helped Vice President Kamala Harris create a persona that’s businesslike but not bland. “The way she dresses and projects herself is subtle but powerful,” says Patricia Mears, the deputy director of the Museum at FIT in New York. “She looks right for the office, but you don’t dwell on what she’s wearing.”
Veteran menswear critic G. Bruce Boyer also commends Harris’s skill at walking the line between femininity and presidential gravitas. “I don’t think you’re ever going to see her wearing a dress, except on a very formal occasion where a gown is called for,” he says. “I think she wants to send a clear message that ‘I’m as tough as any of you guys are, and I came to do business.’ She’s not frilly at all.”
Donald Trump
Former president Donald Trump’s wardrobe of billowy suits are as inseparable from his image as his red MAGA hat and his tan—for better or worse. “What can you say about the way Trump dresses?” Boyer muses. “Everybody tells me that he wears Brioni suits, but he doesn’t do Brioni proud. And the ties that come down to his knees…. I’m puzzled by how that works for him.”
At Martin Greenfield Clothiers, the Brooklyn-based tailor to presidents Clinton and Obama, second-generation owner Jay Greenfield is more diplomatic in his appraisal. “I think his look has improved subtly since he first came on the scene,” Greenfield says. “Previously, his suits were a little more oversized and the pants were pleated, and that’s probably what he was used to.” In recent years, however, Greenfield notes that Trump’s jackets have gotten slightly shorter, his pants a little trimmer, and the shoulders more fitted. “There’s been a slight migration, which is probably the right way to go about it: You don’t want to just all of a sudden show up as a different person. You’ve got to be comfortable in what you’re wearing.”
Tim Walz
“He’s the most interesting guy [in the campaign] as far as image is concerned,” says Boyer, noting Minnesota governor Tim Walz’s preference for camo hats, buffalo plaid overshirts, and other Midwestern dadcore staples—a style that would easily look affected on anyone else. “There must have been a time when he was asked to think about getting rid of that and wearing more expensive suits, and he was smart to reject that idea.” Walz’s preference for leaning into his middle-aged Minnesota dad persona carries over to his dressier choices as well—like the dark navy suit and navy tie he wore to the recent VP debate, notes Mears. “I do think he’s figured out how to dress in a suit, but he never looks too polished,” she says. “He always still looks to me like that Midwestern high school teacher, and I think that’s perfect. He’s the VP pick, so I don’t think it’s necessary for him to dress for the top job.”
JD Vance
Other than being the first major party nominee to wear facial hair in 75 years, Ohio senator JD Vance has done little to establish his own style on the campaign trail, aside from his choice of a textured pink tie for the recent VP debate. Instead, he’s adopted the standard Trumpian costume of conservatively cut navy suits (although, to his credit, he rarely wears the hat). What is interesting about Vance’s look, however, is how much it contrasts to his former wardrobe, a Silicon Valley–inspired mix of jeans, fitted blazers, and open-collared shirts. “That transition came around very quickly, and I think it tells you a great deal about Vance,” says Boyer. “He’s very attuned to sniffing the wind and following where it blows, and he’s not adverse to changing his opinion or his outfit.” To Mears, Vance’s recent adoption of the Trump uniform makes a notable counterpoint to Walz’s Midwestern authenticity. “I think he doesn’t quite know what to do with himself,” she says. “To me, he looks like a person in transition. Regardless of who wins the election, it will be interesting to see what he eventually becomes.”