Akhtala Monastery, Pghindzahank, or “Copper Mine Monastery,” is a 10th-century site in Armenia near the Georgian border. It was built on a plateau with very deep gorges, strategically positioned to defend the northwestern regions.
The main church of Akhtala Monastery is named Surp Astvatsatsin and is renowned for its rare frescoes. Painted between 1205 and 1216, these murals are filled with lively biblical scenes in deep blues and golds, combining Byzantine and Armenian features in a unique way that cannot be imitated.
One of the frescoes shows a group of bearded Persians, a design choice that, according to folklore, kept invading armies from attacking the church. Another story claims that the murals were so eye-catching that they distracted people during Mass, leading the priest to cover the frescoes with lime.
There is also a legend that the church once housed a cross used by John the Baptist to baptize Jesus. It was said to have been kept there for a long time before a prominent noble gifted it to a military commander, who later sold it for a considerable sum.
Over the centuries, the monastery faced numerous changes: it came under Georgian Orthodox control in the 14th century, suffered damage from Tamerlane and Avar invasions, and later served as a Greek Orthodox center in the Caucasus. Nowadays, there are services conducted by the Armenian Apostolic Church.
A few scenes from the experimental art movie The Color of Pomegranates (1969) by Soviet director Sergei Parajanov were shot at Akhtala Monastery. Though the film was initially censored by USSR authorities, it enjoyed international success years later.
Despite the amount Akhtala has to offer, it attracts few tourists in comparison with some of its more famous counterparts among Armenian monasteries. It is set in a beautiful spot, its frescoes and fortifications well-preserved, and a fascinating mix of Armenian, Byzantine, and Georgian influences. Indeed, it is one of those hidden treasures waiting to be discovered.
