When the Michelin Guide decided to expand its star system outside of the traditional, white-cloth fine dining experiences it was most associated with, establishments in Asia were among the first to get other qualifications, like the Bib Gourmand. Started in 1997, this award recognizes cheaper meals that are still of great quality by Guide Michelin standards, and they cover the gamut from street stands to hawker stalls to laid-back sit-down restaurants. Positive reception to the Bib Gourmand award lead to Michelin awarding their better-known stars to similar establishments, with Singapore’s Hawker Chan https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/hawker-chan-soya-sauce-chicken-rice-and-noodle having once been known as “the cheapest Michelin-starred meal in the world”.
The success of single-starred specialized sellers was probably greatest in Asia, leading to a large number of establishments that would often focus on one dish executed with expertise. Hong Kong’s Kam’s Roast Goose is an example of such a restaurant, as its signature dish is obvious from the name. Kam is the surname of the family that has run this place for years, with the original inspirations being great-grandfather Kam Kinsen Kwan Sing and grandfather Kam Shui Fai, who started the predecessor restaurant Yung Kee in 1942.
Kam’s Roast Goose would earn its first Michelin star in 2014, and their certificates on display date as far back as 2015, meaning they have held on to their one-star rating for at least a decade. In addition to the titular dish, they are also known for their charcuterie, with goose and pork sausage taking price of place next to the roasted poultry. Roast goose itself is a classic of Cantonese cuisine, well-represented in Hong Kong, ranging from mom-and-pop small businesses to, of course, the Michelin system.
Know Before You Go
Open daily from 11:30 am to 9:30pm. The ordering and queuing system is peculiar: first you must ask the host or hostess inside whether they have any goose left, if they do they’ll ask how many people, if sit-down or takeaway, and if you’re ordering a half or whole goose (a whole one is probably recommended for 6 people, maybe a minimum of 4 if particularly hungry).
Depending on your goose order, they will give you a number and ask that you queue outside until a table has freed up. The queue is not first-come, first-serve, and it moves based on availability. It is unadvisable to queue before ordering the goose first, as they could run out temporarily.
For this same reason, if there’s no goose on the first try, it could pay to try again an hour or so later, specially as some parties quit the queue before their number is called out. All members of the party need to be present when the nunber is called out, or it won’t be valid. Sides and drinks are ordered once you’re seated inside.
